I made the mistake of believing some dumb guide online that recommended the Razer BlackShark v2 Pro for Linux. Literally the volume control is broken out of the box lol.

I just want a wireless headset. For listening to audio. And a mic. Don’t care for fancy features. Apparently too much to ask for a linux user.

What are y’all using and how is it working for you?

    • ramasses@social.ozymandias.club
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      6 months ago

      On the contrary, I have an old Razer Basalisk v3 mouse, and it works perfectly with linux. I installed openrazer to controll the rgb and everything works perfectly.

    • PotatoesFall@discuss.tchncs.deOP
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      6 months ago

      Yeah lesson learned lol. I figured, I don’t need the fancy features. Turns out volume control is a fancy feature. And I’m not even talking about the volume wheel on the headphones. I’m saying, adjusting my system volume barely affects the headphone volume.

    • BurntWits@sh.itjust.works
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      6 months ago

      Are there any companies that are especially friendly towards Linux? I’m not looking to buy anytime soon but I’d be curious to know.

    • CalcProgrammer1@lemmy.today
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      6 months ago

      Razer stuff is fine in Linux. I use several different Razer products on Linux and they all work fine, including Arch Linux on my Razer Blade 14 laptop. Their protocols are pretty well understood at this point on most of their devices.

    • Korhaka@sopuli.xyz
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      6 months ago

      How? Mine have worked fine. At least until today when part of the plastic snapped but they are over 5 years old. Going to try glue it tomorrow.

      May look for a replacement sometime, always used wired so far.

  • morbidcactus@lemmy.ca
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    6 months ago

    Are you married to the idea of wireless? The old suggestion of decent headphones and a mic are imo the best way to do things. I’ve got an old blue yeti I use when I need a mic, but been considering getting a modmic to attach to my headphones. I ran with a pair of Beyerdynamic DT-880s for over a decade as my daily drivers with a FiiO DAC/amp combo, use a k5 pro now with some DT 1990s and found that to be a great combo.

    • PotatoesFall@discuss.tchncs.deOP
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      6 months ago

      I kinda am yeah :P I also want to use it for work, and I can’t sit still so I am always getting up. I wanna be able to participate in a call while I’m in the kitchen for example :P

  • Err(()).unwrap()@lemmy.world
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    6 months ago

    I used to own a HyperX Cloud Flight. It’s the best wireless headset I’ve ever tried. It comes with a USB dongle, no Bluetooth. Worked out of the box on Arch. I bought mine before HP infested HyperX, but my sister uses a post-buyout one and she says it’s perfect.

    Pros:

    • Audio quality is great for fun (games and films), decent for music and critical listening. The frequency response has a common V shape, but the bass doesn’t blow out the top ends (eat a dick, Raycon).
    • Eight-hour battery life, can be used while charge cable is connected.
    • Aux input that bypasses the internal DAC.
    • Signal can penetrate several solid brick walls.
    • Comfortable even on my melon head.
    • Mic is detachable. Quality is as good as an Aussie wanker can expect.

    Cons:

    • Micro-USB charger port.
    • Volume control is a click wheel that sends volume up/down keystrokes to the PC. I had to remove it from mine because it wore out and would “bounce” and send several keystrokes every time I touched it.
    • The earpads are covered in shitty leatherette that will fall off in a few months.

    In general, avoid anything “Gamer”. You’re paying for the brand, not the quality. Even the cheapest “audiophile” headphones are better.

    Wireless headsets will always be limited by their internal DAC. Another option is to get a decent wired headset and a dedicated wireless DAC. I currently use a modded Beyerdynamic DT770 and an AKG K-240, and if I need them to be wireless, I clip a Fiio BTR5 to the headstrap and connect it with a short cable.

    • Lets_Disco@retrolemmy.com
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      6 months ago

      I can second Hyper X for Linux. Using the USB dongle is perfect for wireless, as I dont like having Bluetooth enabled all the time. I only enable it when using my controller on my laptop. Headphones are great and not crazy expensive. I just wanted headphones that worked and they do exactly that.

      Haven’t had a single issue with my Hyper X Stinger headset across the distros I’ve tried (PopOS, Nobara, Cachy, Endeavor).

    • PotatoesFall@discuss.tchncs.deOP
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      6 months ago

      avoid anything “Gamer”

      to be honest I’m looking for general purpose headset to also use for work, but looking for business headsets landed me in some crazy price ranges, so I’ve been looking for gaming headsets since. gonna look into HyperX, thanks!

      • Err(()).unwrap()@lemmy.world
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        6 months ago

        It’s less about the concept of a game-centric headset and more about the brands that sell themselves as “We Are Gamers” with angular shapes and RGB out the ass. Steelseries, Razer, Alienware, Aorus, ROG… I’ve had many bad experiences both personally and professionally. The only one I didn’t end up regretting was Logitech G. The G502 mouse is a beast.

  • cecilkorik@piefed.ca
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    6 months ago

    Razer is awful, they are about as proprietary as it is possible for a consumer electronics company to reasonably be. Avoid them at all costs.

    Logitech is generally a better choice when available.

    Steelseries, although I don’t generally love their build quality, has worked well on Linux for me. I can’t speak for their cheaper headsets but I specifically am using a Steelseries Arctis Pro Wireless in Bluetooth mode with a magnetic-tip USB cable for charging (leaving the Micro-USB tip in the headphones at all times, because fuck Micro-USB).

    I assume the non-Bluetooth USB dongle works fine as well but I’m too lazy to use it and have probably lost it somewhere along the way so I can’t personally confirm that. Bluetooth is my jam though.

  • BurgerBaron@piefed.social
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    6 months ago

    Arctis Nova Pro Wireless. They’re excellent headphones, decent microphone. Comfy, long battery life. It’s the swap-able batteries dock station type. So they’re decently popular and this exists:

    https://github.com/elegos/Linux-Arctis-Manager/

    Edit: also has Bluetooth support. I use them with my phone too not just the 2.4Ghz Desktop dock.

  • the_swagmaster@lemmy.zip
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    6 months ago

    I got a pair of Fractal Scapes. The software to modify them is just a website so it’s easy to EQ them on Linux (I run bazzite). The EQ profiles are also saved locally so once it’s set you never have to look at the website again. The works dick worked straight away and volume control+ play/pause work massively on Linux which is great

      • the_swagmaster@lemmy.zip
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        6 months ago

        It’s their first one and so far I’m quite happy with it! The dock is especially nice and one of the main selling points to me from a convenience perspective and it works great. I’m lazier than ever XD

    • BigDaddyRAAB@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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      6 months ago

      Just got these recently they’re awesome. Wireless charging, Bluetooth support, flip mic to mute, really comfortable and sound great.

    • craigers@lemmy.world
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      6 months ago

      No chat mix is what kills it for me. I’m spoiled with independent volume control between chat and game output. If I can find a solution for this it would open up a world of headsets for me. Steelseries used to do it on headset, now you need their shitty app on newer sets.

  • who@feddit.org
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    6 months ago

    The one I use was discontinued years ago, so instead of recommending it, I’ll offer a suggestion:

    Don’t look for “gaming” headsets. Look instead for well-regarded headphones and mic, or for a telephony (VoIP) headset from a brand that specializes in them, on sale. You’ll be more likely to find something that sounds good in both directions and lasts a long time.

    • bassow@lemmy.world
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      6 months ago

      Tbf, this holds true for any accessory, from chairs to computer cases: Anything branded as “gaming” is usually mid quality at a premium price.

  • Meldrik@lemmy.wtf
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    6 months ago

    I have always used SteelSeries. It might not be the best (because it’s a gaming headset), but it has always worked on Linux and it’s Danish 😁

  • seathru@quokk.au
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    6 months ago

    It’s not a wireless setup, but in case someone else is looking: Audio-Technia ath-m20x headphones driven by a Fosi Audio Q4 DAC (because your headphones will only sound as good as their source).

    Sounds great for a ~$100 budget. And the DAC has worked right out of the box with no driver issues on the few (fedora based) distros I’ve tried.

  • Luffy@lemmy.ml
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    6 months ago

    Sennheiser HD 280 pro

    Main difference beetween that and most other monitoring stuff is the plastic build, but it.only costs like 80€ vs 120-150€, and it has lower impedance if you don’t want a separate audio setup for it or want to buy it later

    • Muffi@programming.dev
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      6 months ago

      This is by far the best headset you can get for that amount of money. Easily repaired, great sound quality, sturdy build. Love this model. I have had mine for almost a decade now.

  • JTskulk@lemmy.world
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    6 months ago

    I love my Steelseries Arctis 7. It doesn’t need any software to configure at all, works out of the box in Linux. Has a nice hardware mixer right on the headphone so you can lower game sounds to hear voice chat better and vice versa.

    • yeehaw@lemmy.ca
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      6 months ago

      Is it corded? I think I have a 3, and got the one with 3.5mm plug. Never had an issue.

      • JTskulk@lemmy.world
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        6 months ago

        Wireless with a USB dongle. Analog will never have issues, but this fancy wireless one doesn’t either :)

        • yeehaw@lemmy.ca
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          6 months ago

          How does this dial work which lowers game volume so you can hear voices?

          • JTskulk@lemmy.world
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            6 months ago

            The headset presents 2 separate audio devices to your computer, so you direct your games to use the headset game output and Discord or whatever to use headset voice. It’s pretty magical honestly, no tabbing out when you can’t hear a dude.

      • BlindFrog@lemmy.world
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        6 months ago

        I have the same, an old arctis 7, and it’s plug-and-play on Linux mint. It’s wireless with a USB-c dongle, but 3.5mm jack is an option.

        Once upon a time, I was worried I had to buy another headphones, but I used an aux cord to plug it into a headphone-amp for my electric guitar, and it just works. It turns on & off automatically with the aux cord. I suspect it has to be charged to still work, but I haven’t tested that.

        • TipRing@lemmy.world
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          6 months ago

          I had an old Arctis 7 that finally fell apart last month after 8 years of heavy use.

          I got a new Arctis 7. It is complete garbage. Cheap materials, smaller to the point that it just doesn’t fit my head, my ears don’t fit in the cups.

          And instead of having it register two devices for chat and game you get a single device and then have to use their software to mix the chat, which is a nonstarter for me on Linux. SteelSeries has enshittified hard.

  • SCmSTR@lemmy.blahaj.zone
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    6 months ago
    1. why wireless?

    2. what budget?

    3. music?

    3a) what genres are your favorites?

    3b) what genres you don’t listen to?

    1. how old are you

    2. environment?

    3. what games are your favorites in the past?

    6a) what games are your favorites now?

    6b) what games are you looking forwards to?

    • SoulKaribou@lemmy.ml
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      6 months ago

      Do you mind if I hijack, asking for a friend

      1. Wired please
      2. 200 USD max
      3. Oh yeah 3.1 thrash metal, reggae, electro, rap, 60s 3.2 classic, pop, rock
      4. 42 !
      5. Home, but quite noisy near the road
      6. Apex Legend, cyberpunk 2077, baldurs gate, civilisation… 6.1 Gloomheaven, door kickers 6.2 Stray, Deadlock
      • SCmSTR@lemmy.blahaj.zone
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        6 months ago

        Are you just looking for headphones, or do you need a mic on it, too? Because you get get away with a pair of sony mdr-7506’s and a modmic for that. I generally think a boom arm and a real mic is better than 2-in-1 headsets in a lot of cases, but I also recognize the utility that committing to a microphone attached brings to the table. Those headphones are 80-90 bucks msrp, but everything’s been going up in price so ymmv. And if you attach a modmic to them, your options, value, and repairability open way up. Those headphones are great all rounders and punch way above their weight, don’t require an amp to get 90% of the oomph from them, but still have options later down the line if you so choose. And they’re closed back.

        IF you want open back, buy a pair of massdrop 6xx for 200$. Those have even higher value:price ratio. But those generally do require an amp to open up. Not a great amp, but an extra 200$ to step into a schiit stack would be minimum imo. I’ve bought too many little dac+amp combos and I just don’t like them; the initial value is by far higher, but there’s no upgrade path, they’re usually shitty and don’t have the wattage to drive authoritatively, and are aimed at basically kids and are questionably robust at best. Keep in mind, this option is both more expensive and doesn’t net you a mic - but, it is a proper path if you want great quality stuff that you won’t buy and soon after consider regretting. The sony mdr 7506 is great, but it is a cheap pair of headphones.

        Friendly neighbor headphones that you might want to take a look at are the audio technica m40x. I don’t like beyerdynamic because they have pretty high distortion. Counter strike players like them because they’re bright as shit to hear footsteps, but I got that you like listening to music more and play rpgs; Deadlock is still too much of a wildcard at this point.

        Also, Stray was really good but relatively short with basically no replayability.

        • SoulKaribou@lemmy.ml
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          6 months ago

          Thanks for the detailed answer ! I think close back would be better to block the surrounding noise. I’ll take a look at your suggestions, and I understand the need of an extra amp, but that might be over budget. Thanks again for your answer, it helps me choose

          • SCmSTR@lemmy.blahaj.zone
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            6 months ago

            I own several pairs of much nicer headphones and have used many different headphones and amps for all kinds of different purposes and genres and sources of music and audio and stuff. I daily drive those sony’s (with software eq) directly out from my interface headphone monitor out, and it’s more than fine. I really like the audeze tech and what they output, but for whatever reason, these relatively cheaper 7506’s just… They hit that midground for me where I have zero guilt using them and leaving them out and all that, and also like the sound signature. Nothing about them is perfect and nothing about them is deeply flawed. Honestly, the closest things I can come up with to be serious flaws are that their earcups aren’t very big or deep, and that they have about an inch of (tiny) very exposed wires on either side that run from the band to the actual earcup, but somehow they never seem to fail.

            I use SoundID Reference (software eq program in Windows) to eq them, but you can easily use an oratory1990 eq preset https://www.reddit.com/r/oratory1990/ on whatever eq might be available on Linux. EQ isn’t perfect and doesn’t really solve problems, but it can make appreciable and remarkable differences.

            Actually, and this question is to anybody who might know: is there a good Equalizer APO equivalent (with a good gui) on Linux?

            • SoulKaribou@lemmy.ml
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              6 months ago

              May I further ask what’s your take on in ear monitors ?

              The main advantage to me is that they wouldn’t compress my glasses against my skull so much. I currently have Razer Nari (no, not on the head please !) and they compress my glasses so much that my skull is kind of curved in now at these points.

              • SCmSTR@lemmy.blahaj.zone
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                6 months ago

                IEMs? Are we talking just earbuds or full-on custom ear canal casts?

                First off, stop buying Razer products, at all, full stop. Razer is a hella sexist misogynist company.

                Secondly, Razer is known and only got famous for making high performance gaming mice, particularly their optical sensors and mouse-click switches (yes, I know they had a ball mouse but that’s not what really made them famous/big/successful). Everything else on top of that is literally just branded garbage, ESPECIALLY their shitty headphones.

                Headphone clamp pressure really is a thing, and ranges from too low all the way to too high. I wish I could answer all these questions and infodump at you in person, because there’s really a lot to go over on this subject.

                So, broadly, there are some big categories of headphones in this context: on-ear vs over-ear, and closed-back vs open-back.

                In general, on-ear is cheap crap, just skip that design entirely. It’s bad, cheap, uncomfortable, and inferior. It’s marketed as compact and trendy, but in reality it’s just cheaper to manufacture and has higher margins. I’m sorry Grado and fans. It’s just kind of a weird, outdated design. Instead of the part of the earcups that actually touch you being wider and sitting/touching you actually on your skull AROUND your ear, they sit directly on the ear.

                Over-ear, in comparison, doesn’t (shouldn’t) compress the actual ear and just covers your ear.

                Then you have the next two: closed or open. This is where shit starts to get a little more complex to fully explain. I’m inclined to start by explaining how sound is vibrations in the air and how the cochlea works and psychoacoustics and all that, but to keep this not monstrously long and overly complex, just know that with speakers, you’re hearing a lot of the actual room, as well as the speaker itself. And so with headphones, you don’t hear a room, since the headphone is basically directly on your ear and is very close to directly transducing air motion into your ear canal.

                Except… That there is a room. Or, more precisely, an acoustic space that matters. The shapes of both your ear and your ear canal, the resonances (along with a ton of other stuff) of those spaces and materials all matter! Think about how much you notice something seemingly so small as even your fingertips lightly touching your headphones when they’re on your head - the scale of things that matter has shrunk, and seemingly small differences are QUITE noticeable.

                So, for closed-back vs open-back, the physical difference is that, literally, the back of the headphone, behind the cone/driver is either a closed space or open to the room/space that you’re in. It’s very much like if you hold your cupped hand and cover your ear. In both types of headphones, you obviously have a headphone housing and some sort of driver covering your ear, but with open-backed headphones, the opposing side to your ear is open.

                Why does this matter? Well, because the headphone driver is essentially acting as an electric pump that’s going back and forth really fucking fast, doing its best to recreate recorded or synthesized sound. It’s transducing (like alchemy) alternating current into air vibrations, and thus sounds. Electric motors do the same thing, but instead of with the goal being air vibrations, the goal is the kinetic motion itself, usually with the purpose of controlled, powerful rotation. Speakers and headphones (and in reverse order, microphones!) are just electric motors.

                Sorry, tangent!

                Okay, so, now we know what the driver in the headphone is doing. But, now you have to account for getting that air pressure into the ear canal to affect the cochlea so that you can hear it!

                And as most of us can intuit, air pressure that relatively small can diffuse quite easily, and does. So the first idea would be to basically run a sealed pipe or tube directly into the ear. But have to ever actually listened to a tube? Of course you have! That’s what brass instruments like trumpets and wind instruments like clarinets are! And then the obvious issue with that is, tubes have a sound all their own, and we don’t want everything to sound like it’s coming through a tube, we want it to sound natural, like the listener hears natural, unrecorded sound.

                IEMs attempt this. If you shove the driver wayyyy into your ear, you attempt to eliminate as many variables as you can. Generally, IEMs for performance also are Isolating, meaning they are designed to isolate the intended signal (the music coming out of them) from whatever sounds are happening in real life, usually an audience and all kinds of noise. And they generally do a great job.

                The issue with IEMs, however, are many. Right off the bat, they are relatively expensive because they’re hard to make. The expensive nice ones literally involve somebody CASTING YOUR EAR CANAL. Yes, this is as unpleasant as it sounds, no pun intended. Also, as the IEM name implies: they are monitors and generally not optimal for enjoyment listening. Each time you put them on or take them off, your ear canal is getting clapped and soaked by a very deep plug. Some people like this, but I suppose ymmv.

                Also, now that you’ve stuck the driver way in to the side of your head, you’ve bypassed a good part of your ear canal, but the entire external part of your ear. And if you remember, tubes have sound; your own unique ears and ear canals have unique acoustic sounds that you subtly but definitely use to hear space and identify sounds. IEMs do not sound perfectly natural. This isn’t the end of the world, but it is an effect inherent to the design.

                Earbuds (the less deep, more consumery - less professionally versions, cheaper, and thus not really IEM (In Ear Monitors)), avoid some of these issues, but have all their own issues… From cost, to wireless security, to lifespans due to unreplaceable batteries, to cost efficiencies because you’re now buying radios and software and support and tiny batteries and durable comfortable plastics that touch the insides of your ears, etc. They’re undeniably convenient, but several times more expensive AND non-durable and basically disposable.

                So, what does all of this have to do with open-backed and close-backed headphones, and why did I feel the need to tangent on it, especially when I’m trying to make this not monstrously long?

                Yes, I’m doing my best to keep this short? But in order to explain all of this and not make assumptions on what you and whoever reads this might know, certain topics and definitions have to be at least conceptualized.

                Open-back headphones generally attempt to bring you both your own ear canal and your own external ear, and do it all in a way that is balanced and robust. Sound reproduction is by no means a solved cluster of technology or principles in much the same way that visual display technologies isn’t.

                In sound and physics, there is a principle called the “proximity effect”. It affects speakers, headphones, microphones, and normal real sounds, such as talking. Put very simply, the closer something is, the more bass it has. This has to do with the way energy is diffused, but in-context you can observe it by playing some music on your headphones and them lifting them off of your ears. You will still hear the treble/higher frequencies, but the bass will get quieter more than the treble will get quieter.

                Oversimplifying, it’s because the air is leaking out. With speakers, it’s why small speakers generally sound small, and why big speakers sound big. So, for headphones, small drivers need to be close and have a air-sealed space (I’m sorry, I’m accelerating here because I have to wrap this up somehow), or you can create big drivers for headphones and just control for distance to be consistent.

                So closed back, you’ll get more bass but it’ll be less accurate and less natural but the headphones will basically require them to be sealed to your head (stickier/wetter feeling earpads and more clamping force) and the drivers will be closer.

                And open back will be bigger drivers with more velvet-like earcups.

                Generally. None of this is hard rule, but that’s an idea of the concepts and limits.

                Some open back headphones (such as the Sennheiser hd-598, which i think is out of production and has been replaced several times over by its successor the hd-599) have such low clamping force that people complain they don’t stay on your head. The 599 isn’t as much like this, but because of the larger earcups (and deeper! For more ear space) and the soft velvety earpads (not pleather coated), it’s a WAY more comfortable experience.

                I cannot express how pissed I am at Razer (I’ve preferred their mice since like 2001) for making such shitty headphones and how much they sell them for. You’re being had. Paying more for a worse experience.

                If you’re 42, depending on your hobbies, you should save up and invest in a $200-500 pair of open backs, get a dac and an amp and spend like 200-400, and have a much nicer experience while playing games and not have your shit break on you. It’s not a small amount of money and I don’t know your financial or life situation. But going off your games and music you like, I’ve made some inferences and can tell you this is the pricepoint to save up and try to hit for yourself. It’s the happy medium point.

                Resources for research are the headphones subreddit (fuck spez), headfi, the now retired Tyll Hertsens (that’s his name) and his gone-website but still existing old videos on YouTube innerfidelity, Zeos from his yt channel and subreddit zreviews (he’s uhh… well… you’ll see). There’s a market of hype and elitism in this hobby/field, be ready. If your budget is actually only ever this exact 200, there’s really only a few great options for you, the sony mdr 7506 is (still) very much a go-to, but not perfect for anybody. It is, however, a robust tried and true actual studio monitor headphones from the 1990s that’s stil in use

              • SCmSTR@lemmy.blahaj.zone
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                6 months ago

                I maxed out the length haha. But seeing as we’re several comment levels deep already, i doubt anybody’s going to read this far. If you have any questions now or forever, don’t be afraid to message me or add to this comment chain, and I’ll answer them if i can. I’m curious what you end up going with and why.